Inspirations

SEWING TUTORIAL:

“Timeless shorts“

Pattern
Printable version
Printable version

MATERIAL

  • Tweed fabric without directional nap: 70 cm x 140 cm (3/4 yd of 55 inches).
  • Tweed fabric with directional nap: 100 cm x 140 cm (1 1/4 yd of 55 inches wide).
  • Lining: 30 cm x 140 cm (1/3 yd of 55 inches wide).
  • Fusible interfacing: 30 cm x 90 cm (1/3 yd of 36 inches wide).
  • Double-fold bias tape, satin or cotton, 4 m (4 1/2 yds) (optional)
  • Matching polyester sewing threads
  • Zipper: 16 cm (7 inch)
  • Skirt hook and eye: 1.5 cm (5/8 inch)

OTHER RECOMMENDED FABRICS

  • Denim
  • Linen
  • Heavy weight cotton

MACHINES AND ACCESSORIES

  • Sewing machine and overlock.
  • In this tutorial, we used the elna eXcellence 790PRO and the elna eXtend 664PRO for the finishing touches. You can also add the finishing touches using a standard sewing machine.
  • Standard foot A
  • Zipper foot E
  • Taping guide foot for 9 mm models (Ref. 202-391-003)

Size

  • 36 / 42

METHOD

Fabrics

  • With selvages aligned, fold your fabric in half, right sides together, and pin along the edge.
  • Lay and pin your patterns, following the straight-of-grain arrows if your pattern has them.
  • Add a seam and hem allowance, cut, then mark your seams.

INTERFACING

  • Lay out the waistband pattern pieces and cut twice without adding a seam allowance.
  • Interface front and back of the waistband on the wrong side of fabric.
  • Cut a 2.5 cm (1 inch) wide strip of fusible interfacing and adhere it, straddling the seam line at the edge of the pocket.
  • Cut two 4 cm (1 1/2 inch) wide strips and interface the edge of your zipper opening following the seam line.

SEW THE POCKETS

1.

  • With right sides facing, pin the pocket lining to the shorts.
  • Stitch along seam line through both layers.
  • Turn the lining inside out and topstitch 1/4 inch from the edge.

2.

  • Place the second part of the pocket (hip patch) following the joining line.
  1. Sew around the pocket (see diagram) with a straight stitch even out the seams and overcast with a zig-zag stitch or with the 3-thread overlock on your overlocker.
  2. Secure the pocket along the waist line with a straight seam.
  3. Align the center front of the pocket over the zipper’s edge seam line.

3.

  • Sew the back darts.
  • Lay out the front and back parts of the shorts, right sides together, and pin and sew the seams on each side of the trouser legs.
  • Overcast with the 3-thread stitch of your overlocker or with a zig-zag stitch.
  • Press the seams open.
  • For a tweed style fabric that easily frays, we recommend laying a bias tape over the edge of the seams. To simplify your work, use the taping guide foot (for 9 mm models ref. 202-391-003 / for 7 mm models ref. 202 392 004)

INSERTING THE LAPPED ZIPPER

1.

  • Then sew the seam between the legs up to the zipper’s opening mark.
  • Even out the seams, topstitch and iron.
  • Turn your shorts right side out.
  • Fold over and baste the zipper opening.
  • Pin and baste the left side of your zipper.
  • Attach the zipper foot E to your sewing machine.
  • Open the zipper and stitch all the way to the edge.
  • After a few centimetres (an inch or two), stop sewing with the needle inserted into the fabric, raise your presser foot, close the zipper and finish sewing.

2.

  • Follow the same procedure for the right side of the zipper, following the seam line.

3.

  • The pocket facing that reaches the waistline should be tucked under the zipper’s seam allowance.

4.

  • Join and sew the center-back and center-front seams of the waistband.
  • Press the seams open.
  • If your fabric frays easily, overlock all around both parts of the waistband.

5.

  • Place your waistband over the waist of the shorts, right sides together, following the marks.
  • Stitch with a straight stitch along the seam line.

6.

  • Lay the back of the waistband, right sides together over the center-back marks.
  • Fold the seam allowance at the bottom of the waistband upwards.
  • Sew the edge at the top of the waistband, as well as the sides along the zipper.

7.

  • Notch the corners and even out the seams.
  • Turn the waistband.
  • Turn the bottom seam edge inside.
  • Hold together with an invisible hand stitch.
  • Sew the hook and eye.
  • Measure and prepare a 4 cm (1 1/2 inch) hem.
  • Leave a small margin if you are using an elna eXtend overlocker to overcast the edge.
  • If you wish, you can also insert a saddle stitch along the edge of the hem using the following foot:

– Taping guide foot for 9 mm models ref. 202-391-003 or
– Taping guide foot for 7 mm models ref. 202-392-004

  • By hand, sew your hem with a blind stitch.
  • If you prefer your shorts in a denim, linen or other fabric, you can also create a double fold and machine stitch your hem.


Congratulations, it’s ready!


Thinking about making the matching jacket or trousers you see on the model?

The tutorials are available online in the Inspiration section of our website.

© Elna International Corp. SA, all rights reserved

Copyright

The authorization to use this documentation is hereby granted exclusively for non-commercial use. The contents of this documentation are the sole property of Elna International Corp. SA. This documentation shall not in any way constitute a right to transfer any rights with respect to copyrights of Elna International Corp. SA to the user or to third parties.

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